Q. I once saw in a magazine that you can add plumbing without cutting into the slab. Yet I have not been able to find anything else on it. It was in a contractors magazine. If anyone knows anything please let me know.

A. They make rear discharge toilets that would allow the drain to be run thru a wall to the main. Don't know but they may make a set-in-place toilet and pump unit that would provide an above-the-slab forced main to the main. Check with a quality plumbing supply house. The next answer mentions a sewer sump pump but that is a big job [think a 3' dia. hole about 3' below the slab for the sump] and would involve cutting some concrete. but it would allow you to locally set fixtures and pump up to the sewer main, so it wouldn't mean cutting a long line.

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Q. I can't find any good diagrams/photos on basement plumbing, below slab. I know about vents, slopes and tying in. I just want to see diagrams. Thanks in advance.

A. Did you check with Lowes or Home Depot? They usually help people out with diagrams of kitchen and bathrooms. When we put our bathroom in our basement, we had to build a platform for the plumbing to fit under. Good Luck.....Wish I could help more.

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Q.

A. When you get a new countertop or a kitchen makeover, that does not include plumbing. Plumbing is extra and generally must be done by a licensed plumber. I had a new countertop put in my house as did my nephew and mother. None of these jobs was the plumbing hooked back up... it's just not the way it works.

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Q. I am just now starting to finish my basement. When we built 2 yrs ago we had it prepped for a bathroom and a wet bar. We are starting at the bathroom, do we put the walls up first and have the plumber out before the walls go up? Do we want the sink/tub/toilet there for him or is that not necessary? I guess my question is what steps do I take and in what order? Thanks in Advance!!

A. Do your framing for the walls, then call the plumber to have him install the pipes that will be hidden inside the wall. The bathtub etc can also be installed at the same time. Install the water faucets after the room is finished/walls installed so they will not be accidentally damaged during construction. Hint: Tape the drains & cover the toilet while you work so construction material, nails etc won't fall into the drain. 1 nail lodged in the drain, add some hair/sludge equals a real problem to fix later.

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Q. I cut a chase in sub-floor to change plumbing from a tub to a shower, i covered sub-floor with 1/4 durarock,then cement for a solid base,morter mix to slope floor towards drain i was then going to install a membrane when customers tile installer said it had to be removed and replaced that i installed it incorrectly. It was my understanding that after the membrane he was to install thinset over membrane and then tile ? can someone please help answer my questions i still am not sure if i made any mistakes i was trying to ensure a good base for durable longevity

A. The membrane goes behind the durock, and under the mortar bed, the idea is that the membrane holds all the water in and is the last defense between the wood and durock/mortar bed, thinset wont bond to the membrane, it is meant to be attached to concrete of some form whether durock or the mortar bed...putting a membrane in between will keep the the thinset from attaching properly and in turn would cause a horrible tile job, you will need to rip out everything you did and start over from the frame work, dont be surprised if this customer doesn't call you back for anymore work. i would suggest hiring a sub-contractor who knows how to do the job properly and eat the cost if you want to maintain any kind of reputation. and dont take jobs that you aren't 100% sure you know how to do. i dont suggest shoving the membrane under the mortar bed or making an attempt to "make" it work...if its not done right and it leaks you can face a law suit for future water damage because of poor installation of membrane. It has to be done right.

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Q. I had the plumbers in here on Friday to install a cutoff valve in hopes of getting a new refrigerator soon. I just had a "floating" vinyl floor installed 6 months ago. Good Armstrong high quality flooring. When the plumber moved my old peg-legged (no rollers on this baby) refrigerator he tore and "X" 4 inch by 4 inch section of my new flooring. They want to patch it. I say replace it. If it had been 4 or 5 years old I could live with a patch. I saved a long time to get this flooring installed. I paid cash for the materials and installation. What would you do?? Well good news!!! The plumbing company has agreed to replace my flooring. The President of the Company came out himself and said "if it was my house I would want it replaced too". End of story - problem solved. Thank you all for your answers. And oh Bob, nanananana!!!

A. Of course the contractors will tell you to patch it, they don't have to live with the floor. Is it too much to ask that the appliance be moved properly, is this his first job. A responsible contractor carries a set of furniture, appliance movers to avoid this situation. There is no way to patch this floor without leaving an obvious defect. Demand a new floor and if they don't respond, call the plumbers association and the better business bureau. That's the cost of doing business carelessly. If he broke your sink would you let him patch it, if it's a real business, he has liability insurance. Once you agree to a patch you are relinquishing your claim

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Q. - Quote to replace tub and tub surround - $1,700 - "this would be barring any problems" - Remove and dispose old carpet & baseboards - $300 - Paint entire apartment including kitchen and bathrom cupboards and hallway -$2,100 - Carpet installation (275 sq.ft) and vinyl flooring (275 sq.ft) - $2500 The apartment is a 1-bedroom only 550 sq/ft. it's a rental business and not in the best area in town in Ontario, Canada so I just want it to be nice and simple, not expensive fancy stuff. (for example commercial grade carpet is perfect). There was a heavy smoker living there before. is it possible painting is more expensive becasueof that for example? how much approximately should the above items really cost? THANKS.

A. If the tub quote includes the tub, new plumbing and faucets it is OK. Not good, but OK. The rest of those are nuts. The carpet and vinyl, removal, and replacement is more like 800-1000, unless you are buying high end carpet. Painting a place that small is maybe 60 in supplies and 100 to paint, it will take 6-7 hours to prep and paint. Another 2 hours for the cupboards.

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Q. Bathroom sink pipe sprung a major leak, 15 minutes worth of tap water soaked hardwood flooring, plaster walls and ceilings and ran into some duct work...also we are concerned about the electrical wiring behind ceiling and walls, what are some good characteristics to look for in hiring a contractor who specializes in this type of work? Also, is it typical for the homeowner's insurance to cover the plumbing work? So far, the adjuster says only work to repair damage is covered but not the plumbing that caused the problem...sound right?

A. Your adjuster is correct. Your insurance policy owes for access to get to the plumbing leak and to repair it but NOT for the part itself. Start by making sure your house is dried out properly by a certified water damage restoration company (i.e. ServiceMaster). They will find out where the water damage starts and ends, take moisture reading of your flooring and walls & may place fans/dehumidifiers to dry out your home. After the place is dried out, then address rebuild. If you need paint, drywall, flooring or baseboards...ask your adjuster if they have a "preferred" general contractor that is on the company's preferred program. Go with one of them if they do. Good luck.

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